Feeding peppers is one way to get bigger harvests, but when and what should you fertilize them? Let me help you out!
NPK Balance
Your pepper plants will need different nutrients at different stages of their life.
When they are young and growing, they want lots of nitrogen, as this is responsible for the growth of the leafy green parts of your plants.
Later, when they begin to flower and fruit, they will need more potassium, which helps promote the development of more flowers and fruit.
The different levels of these nutrients will be broken down in your fertiliser into an NPK rating.
- N=Nitrogen
- P=Phosphorus
- K=Potassium
Here you can see the NPK rating on my Tomorite tomato feed.
This is 4-3-8 fertiliser. So it has a lot of potassium in it, but still plenty of nitrogen and phosphorus.
This is the perfect feed for pepper plants while actively flowering and developing fruit.
When the plants are younger, you can use a higher nitrogen feed to encourage plenty of new growth and leaves.
You don't want to overdo it on the nitrogen in the later stages as this can lead to lots of leaves but little fruit.
Here is the same brand of Tomato food but this is the organic version.
As you can see, the NPK is very different and much more balanced at 3:3:3.
This is very common with organic fertilisers, which tend to be much more balanced without one standout nutrient. This is because it is harder to naturally make a feed with one nutrient a lot higher than the others.
What I Use
This is what I am using this year, and it works well on my peppers and tomatoes.
To keep things simple - any tomato feed will work well with peppers too.
I like to garden organically, so I am using an organic feed.
Homemade Alternatives
There are many homemade fertilizers that can work well on peppers. Here is my favorite option.
Comfrey and Nettle liquid feed.
Comfrey tea is a simple-to-make plant superfood. If you haven't made your own rocket fuel yet, then here is how I make mine.
What You Need
- Comfrey and nettle Leaves
- A barrel or bucket with a lid
- Water
- Sack or Pillowcase (optional but advised)
- Weight
Making The Tea
Comfrey and nettle tea is really simple to make.
To start with, harvest a load of comfrey leaves and chuck them in a barrel or bucket.
Comfrey is very resilient; you can chop it right back, and it will bounce back, so there is no need to be gentle here. Also, add in plenty of nettle leaves. I just pinch the tops off some from the weedier areas of my garden. If you are going foraging for nettles, avoid ones in busy public areas as they may have been sprayed, and this is the last thing you want to add to your garden!
Once you have added some leaves, you need to submerge them in water.
If you have a hessian or cloth sack - something like a pillowcase works well - then add the leaves to it before putting them into the water.
This stops them from clogging up your tap later on. But you do end up with a very stinky sack!
Now you need something to weigh the leaves down to keep them below the water's surface.
I use a big wooden post with a plate on the bottom, and it works well.
Now you need to put a lid on your brew.
This will stink, which is why we need the lid. Even still, we need to keep this barrel far away from any space we intend to spend some time in - it smells that bad.
After 2-4 weeks, your tea will be ready.
A barrel with a tap on makes it really simple to get your brew out - especially if you put the leaves in a sack.
I like to pour the mix out and keep it in an old water bottle.
The longer you leave your tea mixing, the stronger it will be.
I dilute this down in a watering can and regularly apply it to my peppers.
You could use this mix as it is, as a fortnightly feed - but I instead go for the little and often method.
Feeding The Soil
Feeding your soil isn’t just about better veg or bigger blooms—it’s the foundation of any successful garden. Soil isn’t a lifeless medium; it’s a living ecosystem. Look after it, and it’ll look after your plants.
Why Feed the Soil?
Good soil supports strong plant growth, better water retention, and resistance to pests and disease. Over time, weather and cropping deplete the nutrients. Feeding the soil encourages a natural, self-sustaining system rather than dumping synthetic fertilizers.
Start with Organic Matter
The easiest and most effective feed is organic matter. Homemade compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mould, or green manure work well. Spread it in autumn or early spring and let worms and rain pull it in. No need to dig it in, let nature do the job.
If you’ve got heavy clay, compost helps break it up. For sandy soils, it adds structure and holds moisture. Either way, a couple of inches of mulch once or twice a year makes a world of difference.
Use Compost and Manures Wisely
Well-rotted manure is brilliant for feeding hungry crops like peppers, tomatoes, pumpkins or brassicas. Don’t use fresh manure, it’s too strong and can scorch plants or spread weed seeds. Mix it in during winter or early spring before planting.
Garden compost should be dark, crumbly, and smell earthy. If it’s slimy or stinks, it’s not ready. Turn your bin now and again, and avoid too much grass clippings or kitchen waste in one go, as they can throw the balance off.
Try Green Manures
Green manures are plants grown to be chopped down and dug in. Clover, field beans, and phacelia are common ones. They improve soil structure, add nutrients, and suppress weeds. Sow after harvesting crops, let them grow, then cut back before flowering and dig them in or cover with mulch.
This is especially useful over winter, when bare beds can lose nutrients through rain. It’s an easy way to keep soil productive without much effort.
No-Till
No-till or No-dig gardening is all about protecting the soil structure and feeding the biology within it. Instead of turning the soil, you apply compost or well-rotted organic matter directly on top. This mimics natural woodland systems, where nutrients are recycled from the surface down.
Each year, add a 1-2 inch layer of compost across your beds. This encourages worms, fungi, and microbes to flourish, breaking down organic matter and pulling it into the soil. Weeds are suppressed too, and beds stay tidy with less effort.
It’s a low-labour, high-yield method that suits both new and established plots. You’ll need to be consistent with mulching, but once the system is in place, it practically runs itself.
Biochar
Biochar is a form of charcoal used in the soil. It doesn’t feed plants directly but works like a sponge, holding nutrients, water, and beneficial microbes. It’s especially useful in poor or tired soils that don’t hold on to feeds well.
The key is to "charge" it first. Mix biochar with compost, worm juice, or a natural liquid feed and let it sit for a couple of weeks. This loads it with nutrients before you spread it. Adding it raw can actually lock up nitrogen for a while, which you don’t want.
Once charged, apply it like a mulch or mix into topsoil. It’s long-lasting, once it’s in the ground, it can stay active for decades. It’s not cheap, but if used sparingly alongside other organic matter, it can be a worthwhile investment.